Ireland is one of the world’s most iconic whiskey regions. Once responsible for making 80% of the entire world’s whiskey, in the 1980s the industry declined to just three distilleries. But recently Irish whiskey regained popularity and today there are almost 40 distilleries. For my annual birthday trip, my boyfriend and I went on a whiskey trip in Ireland to explore the incredible styles of Irish whiskey and learn more about its unique history.
As you can imagine, it’s not possible to visit all 40 distilleries in one trip. But if you’re dedicated, you can see a handful of them, plus stop by a few castles and ruins along the way. Here’s how to do it.
How to Plan a Whiskey Trip in Ireland
Decide How to Get Around Ireland
First off, you need to figure out transportation. Unlike Scotland, where whiskey is categorized by geographical region, whiskey distilleries in Ireland are scattered throughout the country. So in order to pull off a whiskey trip in Ireland, my boyfriend and I rented a car and (he) drove in a giant loop around Ireland and Northern Ireland.
Remember, in Ireland they drive on the left side of the road. That can be intimidating to some people (*raises hand*) and it is indeed stressful (says the person who didn’t drive but I’m assuming!). If you’re not comfortable driving, hire a driver or take an organized trip.
I recently went on a whisky-focused trip through Scotland with Scholarly Sojourns, who offers complete tours of Ireland as well. I’m a big fan of day trips, which are an option to some distilleries from Dublin, like this one to Tullamore D.E.W. Or opt to hire a driver, like this one.
Figure Out Your Must-See Distilleries
In just eight days we toured seven whiskey distilleries. They ranged from old and iconic (Midleton) to the oldest in the world (Bushmills), from popular and established (Tullamore and Teeling) to new and up-and-coming (Pearse Lyons and Boann). Some were huge (Midleton, Tullamore, Bushmills), others were tiny (Boann); one was in a church (Pearse Lyons) and another in a castle (Slane). Phew — that’s a lot!
Before you get intimidated, start small. We flew in and out of Dublin, so the obvious choice was to visit whiskey distilleries in the city. We started with Teeling Distillery in Dublin, which is perfect to learn about the different types of Irish whiskey. They make single malt, single grain, pot still, and blended whiskey, plus now a (delicious) peated single malt.
Next we hit Pearse Lyons Distillery in Dublin. Built in a church dating from 1859, Pearse Lyons is worth it just to see a church reimagined as a distillery. But the whiskey is awesome, too. Much of their older bottles are sourced from Cooley, but don’t let that turn you off — it’s good whiskey. Their new stuff needs some age, but head towards the gin in the meantime.
Explore the distilleries in Ireland (either online at your local whiskey bar) and decide where you want to visit. Then make reservations for tours and tasting in advance.
Related :: the Ultimate Guide to Whiskey Distilleries in Ireland
Mix in Some Culture & Castles
After two days in Dublin, we set off for Midleton Distillery, via two nights in Cork. The drive from Dublin to Cork isn’t long (about 3 hours) but just because we were on a whiskey trip in Ireland didn’t mean there wasn’t more to see. We stopped at the Rock of Cashel, the ruins of a chapel from the 12th Century. The ruins are beautifully covered with moss, giving the ancient structure a tint of green. Apparently there are frescos in surprisingly good condition, but they’re only available to view at certain times of the day, so plan accordingly. (You can also visit the Rock of Cashel from Dublin on this day trip.)
On our way to Midleton Distillery from Cork, we took a detour to Cobh to see the stunning cathedral overlooking the bay and the colorful pubs lining the street. Days later on our drive from Cork to Galway, we stopped in Limerick for lunch. We could have toured King John’s Castle (which I did a few years ago) and debated stopping by the Cliffs of Moher on the way, but the weather wasn’t right for it.
Bottom line: throw in as many stops to cultural spots and cute towns as needed to stay entertained on your drive (in case the gorgeous scenery isn’t enough for you!).
Related :: The Best Day Trips from Cork
Don’t Overlook the Restaurants Near Distilleries
With the exception of Dublin, most distilleries in Ireland are located outside of big cities. And it’s easy to assume all the good restaurants are back in the bigger spots. But don’t overlook the restaurants in the small areas near distilleries and castles.
Case in point: Midleton Distillery is less than an hour drive from Cork, where we stayed for two nights. But instead of heading back to the city for dinner, we stopped at Finin’s in Midleton and had a phenomenal dinner of wild venison loin (pictured) and East Cork lamb rump.
Even though the Rock of Cashel was stunning, the real highlight was lunch at Mikey Ryan’s in the town of Cashel. We stumbled upon the restaurant, which was upscale enough to celebrate my birthday (hello 37!) but casual enough that we didn’t feel out of place not being dressed up.
History only repeated itself. After touring Tullamore Distillery, we had an excellent lunch at the original distillery in the town of Tullamore, called The Old Warehouse. And The Conyngham Arms Hotel, near Slane Castle and Distillery, provided a delicious dinner after the tour.
Related:: The Must Eat Dishes in Ireland
Don’t Judge a Distillery Before You Visit
When traveling for whiskey, whether it’s Ireland, Scotland, or Kentucky, it’s easy to scoff at distilleries you don’t like. But I urge you to give every distillery — and their whiskey — a fresh chance while you’re there. Normally I’m not a fan of Jameson, but touring Midleton Distillery was incredible, and completely made me look at Jameson in a new way. (I had no idea it’s aged in Oloroso casks!) When I tasted it with a fresh perspective, I was shocked how good it is. (It’s also where Red Breast, Method and Madness, and Midleton are made, which are worth the visit alone!)
The same happened at Bushmills Distillery in Belfast. We toured the distillery because it’s the oldest licensed distillery in the world (open since an astounding 1608!). And again, tasting the whiskey at the distillery made me appreciate it more. Even though I still wish it had a higher ABV! (Here’s what to know before going to Bushmills.)
Plus you also never know what whiskey bottles are only available at the distillery. Many have whiskey only available at the distillery that they’ll let you taste and (hopefully) buy. Even if it’s just a different ABV, it changes the whiskey (like the cask strength Black Pitts, Red Breast, and Slane we bought). Or a unique finishing, like the Tullamore finished in Pomerol red wine.
Related :: 5 Surprising Facts about Jameson Midleton Distillery in Cork
Leave Room for Surprises
Remember, you’re on a whiskey trip in Ireland, so be open to exploring the whiskey. You just might discover something new you like, and if you’re lucky you can stop by the distillery!
While in Cork we stopped at the impressive whiskey bar The Shelbourne. Not only do they have hundreds of whiskeys, they have an equally impressive bartender who knows his stuff. Thomas introduced us to several whiskeys we hadn’t had before, like Micil, Dunville, and The Whistler.
We immediately tried to make reservations to tour Echlinville Distillery, where Dunville is made, in Northern Ireland. We weren’t able to make that work, but a friend invited us to tour the new Boann Distillery outside of Dublin. Boann Distillery is a whiskey nerd’s dream distillery. It’s not open to the public, but we got a sneak peak inside and got to taste their stunning stuff. Right now it’s still aging, but their sourced whiskey, The Whistler, is available all over — another one we discovered at The Shelbourne.
What I’m trying to say is, as much as I like a scheduled itinerary, allowing room for surprises allowed us to tour Boann Distillery, discover little side trips, and even return to whiskey bars to keep the cycle going.
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Stay tuned for more on our whiskey trip in Ireland, including distillery tours, day trips, and more.
Related :: What to Eat in Ireland, The Ultimate Guide to Distilleries in Ireland, and How to Take a Day Trip to the Cliffs of Moher
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