Islay is a tiny island off the southern coast of Scotland, home to ten whisky distilleries. Visiting is a pilgrimage for many whisky lovers, who travel there to experience its iconic smoky whisky. While it’s a popular tourist destination, it’s worth knowing a few tips for visiting Islay.
Roughly just 25 miles north-to-south and only 15 miles east-to-west, Islay (pronounced “EYE-lah”) isn’t known for its size. But it is known for its whisky, with ten distilleries calling the island home and making up the Islay Scotch Region. And not just any ten! They are some of the most iconic, well-known whisky distilleries in the world: Ardbeg, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Bowmore, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Kilchoman. Plus two new distilleries: Ardnahoe and (still under construction) Portintruan.
With such iconic distilleries, and so many people anxious to experience them, visiting Islay must be easy, right? Eh… not exactly.
5 Tips for Visiting Islay, Scotland
1. Expect the worst getting to Islay.
As I’ve mentioned, we’re talking about an island here. So there are only two ways to get to Islay: by ferry or by plane. Flights from Glasgow, Oban, and Colonsay fly into a tiny airport near Port Ellen, while ferries dock at two ports (Port Ellen and Port Askaig).
But as you may have heard, Scotland isn’t known for its nice weather. And especially not near Islay. The weather notoriously wreaks havoc on the ferry and flight schedules, causing cancellations or delays. And when it’s not the weather, mechanical issues on the ferry are a regular occurrence. Transportation issues are such a regular part of Islay life, the locals shrug it off matter-of-factly.
So know going into your journey that it may not go as planned. On our Whisky & Wonders of Scotland trip, our ferry suffered a mechanical issue that caused a delay. Two hours later, the ferry was canceled and the rest of the day’s ferries were fully booked. (Apparently it doesn’t work like a flight where the passengers with a canceled flight have first dibs on the next plane.)
Luckily our situation worked out thanks to our tour operator. While I don’t have much advice on what to do if you run into issues, it’s worth knowing in advance that delays or stress is likely so you can mentally prepare.
2. Realize Islay is much smaller than you might think.
Islay may be 239 square miles, but the population is barely above 3,000. That’s mostly split into two main towns, Bowmore and Port Ellen, and two smaller villages, Port Charlotte and Portnahaven.
There are only a handful of hotels in each area, and limited restaurants and shops. Unfortunately Islay took a hit during the Covid pandemic, so many places closed or are suffering staffing issues.
In October we stayed in Port Ellen, where there were only two restaurants serving food. The only other place to even buy food was a Co-Op. (But both restaurants, Islay Inn and Sea Salt Bistro, were phenomenal!) One night we drove to Bowmore, which had more options. But because it’s still limited, it’s best to make reservations in advance.
3. Bring your own transportation to get around Islay.
While Islay is small, it’s also quite rural. (The road to Kilchoman Distillery was only recently paved so it wasn’t a dirt road!) I once heard there are only eight cabs on the entire island. I don’t think that’s true, as there are several cab services, but it serves as a good warning: The easiest way to get around is to bring your own transportation.
It’s easiest to rent a car on the mainland, then bring it on the ferry with you. While driving isn’t exactly easy — many roads are only one lane — it’s the most convenient way to get around. And don’t worry about the distillery tours; many will give drivers their whisky samples to go.
Another option is to travel with a tour operator for the entire trip. Islay was the third stop on our 10 day itinerary with Scholarly Sojourns, so we had a bus the entire time, which was brought over on the ferry.
4. Plan ahead. No, really.
Probably the most important of my tips for visiting Islay is to plan ahead. And I mean that in two different ways. First, the time of year you go is important. The Fèis Ìle Festival at the end of May attracts thousands of people. With limited hotels, many attendees camp or find alternative lodging. Lagavulin also hosts a jazz festival every October. And during the off-season, distillery tours are limited and some close for maintenance. So plan accordingly to beat — or join — the crowds!
Second, plan ahead what distilleries you want to visit and book them early. Especially post-Covid, some are still closed some days of the week or limiting the days offering certain experiences. So do your research and book tours and tastings in advance, making sure to account for travel time between distilleries. They might be farther away than you think!
Also know what experiences you want to have at which distilleries. Besides distillery tours, there are warehouse tastings, distillery workshops, whisky pairings, and more, and you’ll want a variety of everything. (Distillery tour fatigue is real!)
Related :: The Ultimate Guide to Distilleries on Islay
5. Know that it’s worth it!
Yes, visiting Islay isn’t the easiest travel experience. But it’s absolutely amazing. There’s nothing quite like whisky from Islay. And there’s absolutely nothing like drinking it on the island where it’s made!
The concept of terroir in whisky may be debated, but you can’t deny that the geography surrounding a distillery influences its character. Seeing the rugged (yet beautiful) landscape, smelling the salty, ocean-flecked winds, tasting local seafood, and — mostly importantly — meeting the friendly locals, paints the full picture of Islay whisky. And it is incredible to experience.
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Islay was the third stop on the Whisky & Wonders of Scotland Tour, which was a partnership between Whiskied Wanderlust and Scholarly Sojourns. Stay tuned for more on Islay distilleries and our next stop, Campbeltown.
Related :: 10 Days in Scotland, Guide to Whisky in Edinburgh, and Distillery Tours in Scotland
It’s always interesting to hear a visitor’s perspective of Islay! So glad you had a good trip!!
Just as an FYI, there are other places in Port Ellen for food :). Campbell’s SPAR (next to the Islay Hotel) is a small convenient store and deli and is great for most things! Next to Sea Salt, there’s Ellen’s Wok chinese takeaway. And there are 2 food trucks – Kay’s Snacks at the pier and the Wee Box. Just outside of Port Ellen, there’s the new Balaclava Byre and Ardbeg’s Old Kiln Cafe or food truck depending on the season. :). For your next trip!