To be honest, I’ve never had much desire to see the canals of Venice or ride in a gondola. But I’ve dreamed about seeing the opera at the Teatro La Fenice in Venice for years. So after a week in Rome, I spent two days in Venice experiencing the historical city. The canals — and the incredible food — were just bonuses on top of the opera.
Two Days in Venice, Italy
Most people, on the other hand, flock to Venice specifically for those canals and gondola rides. And, unfortunately, it’s true what every travel website has been screaming lately: Venice is overrun with tourists. The masses are everywhere, in large groups, tromping through the tiny corridor streets and stampeding gondola stands.
And the shops and restaurants reflect that over-tourism. All the shops are obviously dedicated to tourists and all the restaurants are awfully overpriced. Gondolas clog the canals back to back, and waiters and shop clerks seem exhausted in their service.
Even still, Venice is a place unlike any other. Each view is postcard-level pretty, to a point that feels like it could be a movie set. (Despite some tourists asking when Venice closes — sigh — rest assured it’s an actual city with actual locals who live there!) It was not my favorite, but two days in Venice was enough to appreciate its charm — and its food.
Related :: 5 Must Eat Dishes in Venice
How to Get to Venice
Getting to Venice is easy. You can fly directly to the Marco Polo airport, or take the train like I did. From Rome it’s an easy 3.5 hours or just 2.5 from Milan. (It’s best to book train tickets in advance here.) But once you arrive, getting to your hotel is not so simple.
There are no cars in Venice, so you can either take the water taxi that costs about 80€ or walk over the 400 bridges. Doesn’t sound too bad, right? Wrong. Those little bridges each have about five steps up and five steps down, so hauling my luggage over each one became a not-so-welcome workout! The ferry (about 7.50€) would have been a better option, since it stopped near my hotel. Oh well, you live and you learn.
Where to Eat in Venice
After checking into my hotel that was once a palace in the 14th Century(!), I set out into the city in search of food. I always arrive armed with a list of places where to eat (and what to eat) so my first stop was Chat Qui Rit. The wine bar is in a weird, dark corner but the food was spectacular. A modern take on French-turned-Italian, I had passatelli pasta in smoked sea broth with raw scampi, sea urchin “ice” and clams.
The next day I stopped at the famous Bar All’arco, a locals’ lunch spot. Only open for breakfast and lunch, they are known for their cicchetti. Similar to Spanish tapas, cicchetti are little toasts topped with different ingredients. Seafood, like tuna or shrimp, are common, plus cured ham or vegetables. They are eaten as an appetizer or can make a whole meal if you order a bunch. I ordered a few plus a side of baby octopus drenched in olive oil and paired it with a glass of white wine. There are no seats so I ate standing, stuffing my face next to the window. It was fantastic.
Because I’m a glutton (and wanted to try as much Venetian food as possible), after I went to Rusteghi Wine Bar. Finding the hidden spot was like going on a scavenger hunt, but it was worth it. Tucked in a quiet square, I ordered several small dishes of seafood: shrimp pasta, razor clams, and steamed oysters with scallion and raspberry vinegar gastrique. It was one of those meals I will remember for the rest of my life.
Related :: The Five Must Eat Dishes in Venice
What to Do in Venice
In between eating as much Venetian food as possible, I spent my time wandering through the tiny streets. Venice is the perfect place to get intentionally lost. I followed my whim around each corner, turning this way and that, discovering little squares or canals creating dead ends.
Once, after wandering, I stopped for espresso at Caffe Florian in San Marco Square. The square is anchored by St. Mark’s Basilica and the Campanile bell tower. It was the most expensive espresso I’ve ever had in my life, but I have a thing for people-watching in old squares with centuries of history. It’s a great spot to stop, just be prepared to shell out some money to do it.
Since I wasn’t about to take a gondola ride by myself — not only would that be weird, they are about 80€ for 40 minutes — I went in search of the Bridge of Sighs, a decorative bridge linking the interrogation rooms at Doge’s Palace to the prison across the canal. The name comes from the rumored sighs heard as prisoners would catch their last glimpse of Venice before going to prison. (You can even tour Doge’s Palace.)
And of course I toured the La Fenice Opera House. One of the most important opera houses in operatic history, the theater has been burned down and rebuilt three times, which inspired its name. (La fenice is Italian for “the phoenix.”) Self-guided tours are offered most days, allowing you to go at your own pace. I really enjoyed the opportunity to see inside the theater before seeing the opera that night; it allowed me to take in each part separately.
What to Do Beyond Venice
Believe it or not, Venice is a prime base for day trips. Since I only spent two days in Venice, I didn’t have enough time to venture outside the city, but I would have loved to visit other islands in the region. Or spend a day touring Prosecco wineries.
How to Help Venice’s Over-Tourism
Venice is one of the many European cities battling overtourism. While tourists are a good thing, too many cause high rents that drive out locals, non-local businesses, pollution and environmental destruction. So how can you help? • Stay the night. Hotel taxes contribute to city funds while day trippers cause crowds and trash. The worst are cruise ships, that cause harm to the lagoon and pollute the city. • Support local businesses, especially Venetian-owned. This site helps you know where to shop and eat. • Or consider visiting one of the nearby islands in the region instead of Venice.
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My two days in Venice was memorable in the most beautiful, delicious way. While the city has its downsides and headaches, it really is unlike anywhere else in the world.
Related :: What to Eat in Venice, Overrated Tourist Attractions in Rome, and 3 days in Milan.
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Venice is an absolute dream! I went on my own earlier this year and this post made my heart swoon all over again.