Why Ghent Deserves More than a Day Trip

Gravensteen Castle in Ghent, Belgium.
Gravensteen Castle sits right in the heart of Ghent.

Brussels was beautiful. The golden-clad Grote Markt, with the bustling hum of tourists, was captivating. Bruges was adorable, with all the medieval architecture and cobblestone streets. But Ghent, Ghent was incredible. With castles, cathedrals, canals, and colorful architecture, Ghent deserves more than a day trip.

Like many places I adore, it’s hard to describe why I fell in love with Ghent. But let me try.

Why Ghent Deserves More than a Day Trip

Boats and buildings along the Lys river in Ghent, Belgium.
Boats and buildings along the Lys river in Ghent.

Ghent straddles the Leie river 35 miles northwest of Brussels, just a quick hour away on the train. That easy access from Belgium’s capital makes it a popular day trip spot, but it’s worth spending more than a few hours there. As the capital of Belgium’s Flemish Region, Ghent is one of the largest cities in the country and has been since the Medieval Ages. Much of the medieval architecture remains today, with a heavy Dutch influence making each building uniquely ornate.

 

Architecture in Ghent, Belgium.
The architecture in Ghent is stunning.

Ghent is Easy to Get Around

I spent a week traveling through Belgium with my friend Heather, both of us celebrating our birthdays. Ghent fell in the middle of our adventure, after Brussels and Bruges, and size-wise it was a mix between the two. Big enough for the city to be liveable but not as large as Brussels; quaint enough to be adorable but not as small as Bruges.

Ghent is extremely walkable, with all the tourist sites (more on those below) an enjoyable stroll from each other. But the tram is equally easy, with convenient stops spread throughout the city. Get a Lijn Card (for 10 trips) or transit pass for the length of your stay (available in 1 or 3 day increments) and you have instant access to trams when your legs get tired.

 

The view of Ghent from the Gravensteen castle.
The view of Ghent from the Gravensteen castle.

Ghent is Covered in History — and Churches

But Ghent has so much crammed into a small area that walking was our transportation of choice. Just getting from one place to another was entertainment. Huge, ornate churches squish next to each other, sometimes several on the same block (unfortunately not all are open to tourists). And it’s hard to miss the Belfry, the tallest Medieval watchtower in Belgium, built in 1313. Climb to the top for a view of Ghent from the sky.

Then there’s that castle. Looking straight from a fairytale, the Gravensteen castle was built in 1180 and is now right in the middle of the city. It’s surrounded on one side by a moat, flanked by turrets topped with crenellated battlements, all surrounding a towered keep. Tours of the castle (10€) provide an entertaining history lesson of the fortress, plus take you to the top of the keep for a birds’ eye view of the city. (Don’t skip the audio guide! It’s hilariously voiced by Flemish comedian Wouter Deprez.) Oh, and there’s a torture museum inside too.

 

Beer along the Lys river in Ghent.
Beer along the Lys river in Ghent.

And Ghent is Covered in Colorful Architecture

If churches aren’t your thing, the colorful architecture in Ghent is just as striking. Take a stroll along the Leie river, lined with ornately decorated Medieval buildings. Known as the Graslei on the right bank and Korenlei on the left, the former Medieval port is now a restaurant-lined tourist hub. We stopped for a beer on the river to watch the boats. Boat tours run up and down the river offering historical tours, relaxing cruises, and transportation.

All over Ghent, tucked down little streets, are historic town squares surrounded by shops and cafés with outdoor seating. Besides being adorable, they are great spots for drinks or lunch with a side of people-watching. The largest — and oldest — is Vrijdagmarkt, where a market is held every Friday and Saturday, a weekly tradition since the 1100s. Or the thousand-year old Korenmarkt, known for the famous mochas at Mokabon.

 

Steak Strogonoff and frites at Brasserie Friends in Ghent, Belgium.
Steak Strogonoff and frites at Brasserie Friends.

Ghent has Great Food

The food in Belgium is fantastic but Ghent’s culinary specialties added to my love of the city. Stoverij, a beef stew made with onions and dark Flemish beer, was my favorite. Waterzooi, a fish soup, is another Ghentian specialty. And don’t miss mastel, a sweet bread filled with butter, cinnamon, and brown sugar, served warm.

Even beyond Ghent specialties the food is fantastic. Brasserie Friends is a great spot for an outdoor lunch overlooking the Vrijdagmarkt square. Julie’s House is an adorable bakery serving breakfast steps from the Gravensteen Castle. And Vrijmoed, a two-Michelin starred spot serving creative modern cuisine, was sensational. The chef is known for his unique ingredient combinations and our Stilton blue cheese sorbet was something I’ll remember for years. (There are 8 Michelin-rated restaurants in Ghent alone!)

Another fun spot for food is the Holy Food Market, a church converted into a food hall. Sixteen stalls line the gallery serving international cuisine surrounding a bar in the center. It was mostly closed when we tried to go, but we got a peek inside that made us wish the stalls were open!

 

Buildings along the river in Ghent, Belgium.
Buildings along the river in Ghent.

Arts, Museums, and More

Ghent is not without its museums and art galleries. In fact, there are dozens of each dotted all over the city, plus plenty of street art. There are theaters and, of course, the opera house that inspired us to stay in Ghent longer than a day. (The opera, if you’re curious, was awful but I blame the opera itself, not the Vlaamse Opera Company.) But really the best part of the city was just walking around and taking it all in.

Even though this article is meant to explain why Ghent deserves more than a day trip and the best way to do that is a long list of what to do in Ghent, honestly it’s beyond those things that made me fall in love. I adored the city because of all its beauty and architecture, with its laid back energy and that deep sense of history.

And maybe convincing people to go to Ghent is the wrong objective anyway. Because if it gets as crowded with tourists as Brussels, it won’t be as wonderful. So on second thought, maybe just spend a day there and leave the relaxing nights and calm mornings for me. :)

•••

Related :: A Week in Belgium, Easy Day Trips from Brussels, and What to Eat in Belgium

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What to do in Ghent, Belgium.
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