I’ve been a whisky drinker my whole life, so even though the focus of my holiday trip was London, my heart ached to go to Scotland. At the last minute, I finally gave in and booked a side trip for two days of whisky and history in Edinburgh.
It was supposed to be a quick taste of Scotland, just a few days in the capital to cure my whisky-fueled urge to experience the land of scotch. But something unexpected happened, something magical: I fell in love.
Two Days of Whisky & History in Edinburgh
Edinburgh Enchantment
There are cities where a few days are more than enough to understand the culture, the energy, the people. And there are those that take weeks, years, to barely grasp. Somewhere in between is Edinburgh. It’s dwarfed in size and population by London, but not in history, culture, or pride.
From the moment I stepped off the train in Edinburgh, traversing its damp streets to my hotel on York Street, I felt the pull of my heartstrings. Edinburgh is enveloped by the sea and even when you can’t see it, the salty wind tells you it’s there. It’s nestled among snowy white mountains and green hills contrasted against gray clouds punctuated by spires hundreds of years old. It’s chilly and drearily rainy, but the weather is no match for the whisky or pubs packed with people clinking glasses together in slainte (Scottish for cheers).
It was immediately obvious that two days was not enough time in Edinburgh. Within minutes of arriving, I vowed to return.
Whisky and History
There are a hundred things that made me love Edinburgh: the architecture, the landscape, the whisky, the people. I thought the Brits were friendly, but the people I met in Scotland felt like instant friends.
High above the city, Edinburgh Castle towers over the steep stairways and tiny corridors (called closes) of Old Town. The castle dates to the 16th Century and Margaret’s Chapel, on the castle grounds, is the oldest building in Scotland — an impressive feat in a city as dense with historical architecture as Edinburgh. In fact, Old Town’s medieval layout is so well preserved that the area (combined with neighboring “New Town,” built in the 1700s) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Walking the Mile
Walking down the Royal Mile, the main road between the castle and the Queen’s Scottish residence, Holyrood Palace, feels like a mix between a fairytale and going back in time. That is, if you look past the overabundance of tourist shops selling every possible item of clothing covered in plaid (or, as the Scots say, tartan).
Focus on the architecture, especially Parliament Square and St. Giles Cathedral, and watch your step (literally) to see the Heart of Midlothian, a heart embedded in the cobblestone. (Don’t be surprised if you see people spitting on it; it’s either for good luck or to show disgust for a brutal prison that once stood there.)
The Last Drop
Another spot to watch your feet for is the brass H-shape plates not far from the Heart of Midlothian at the Lawnmarket intersection. It’s where the gallows for the last public execution in Edinburgh stood in 1864 for the hanging of The Ratho Murderer. The murders he committed were gruesome, but the hanging was equally horrific. (Hence why it was the last one.) Not far away is a bar whose name commemorates the event, called The Last Drop.
Near the top of the Royal Mile you’ll find the Scotch Whisky Experience, where whisky tours, tastings, and classes are held. It’s also home to the world’s largest single collection of Scotch (3,384 bottles!). I opted to drool over the whisky shop and have a flight at the restaurant instead of take a tour, which was more than satisfying!
Grassmarket Pubs
Towards the bottom of the Royal Mile in the area known as Grassmarket, is a row of pubs in adorably historical buildings. Many are named after old tales and forklore (like Maggie Dickson Pub, named after the woman who supposedly came back to life after being hanged). The White Hart Inn claims to be Edinburgh’s oldest pub, dating to 1516. No one’s quite certain, but I stopped in for a pint just in case. :)
Following my Heart to Whisky
On my first afternoon I climbed the steep street towards the castle, stopping halfway up the hill at Whiski Rooms, a restaurant known for whisky (they have 300!) and haggis, the must-eat traditional Scottish dish. Made of sheep heart, liver and lungs minced with onion, oatmeal and spices, haggis is often served encased in sheep stomach. (Fun fact: it’s illegal in the U.S.)
Somewhere between summoning the courage to try haggis (it’s actually delicious!) and deciding between my favorite dram of my whisky flight (still debating between Edradour and Clynelish), I met a handsome local who offered to show me around the next day. And that’s how I found myself wandering around Edinburgh, weaving through tiny streets and ducking in pubs for pints of ale with a stranger.
At the end of our day together, my Edinburgh to do list remained mostly untouched, but it was one of best days of my whole trip. Unfortunately, I was headed back to London the next day so I couldn’t spend more time with him.
I started my last morning in Edinburgh with a mind-blowing waffle at St. Giles Cafe, then hopped a train back to England. I cursed myself for only booking two days in Scotland and promised I’d come back. And the next month, I did. (That’s a whole other story!)
I left my heart in Edinburgh
I’d be lying if I said the man I met wasn’t part of the reason I fell in love with Edinburgh. But even if I wasn’t exploring a new city with someone who made my heart race, Edinburgh would still be magical.
Edinburgh was a last minute decision that ended up being one of the highlights of my two weeks in the United Kingdom. I followed my heart and it led me to whisky. My love of whisky led me to Edinburgh. And what an adventure that was.
Up next: where to eat in Edinburgh, quick day trips from Edinburgh, and returning to Scotland a month later.
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