Scotland is an incredible country, with stunning views everywhere you turn. One of the things that makes it amazing is that even the little towns — and the drives between them — are just as beautiful and charming as the big spots. The problem is getting around to them. So Whiskied Wanderlust partnered with Scholarly Sojourns to create a trip exploring the whisky and wonders in Scotland, with the experts at Scholarly Sojourns handling the logistics.
The Whisky and Wonders in Scotland tour was a 10-day trip through the southern part of Scotland. (We’re saving the northern part for another trip.) The main focus was whisky, but castles and cultural sites were also on the itinerary.
We started in Edinburgh and made our way through Glen Coe before spending a night in charming Oban. Then we took the ferry to Islay, where we toured and tasted our way through seven distilleries. After three nights on the isle, we drove to beautiful Campbeltown. We ended with a stop in Inveraray before settling in Loch Lomond. It was a whirlwind of incredible experiences, and without Scholarly Sojourns it would have been much more stressful. (And almost impossible!)
10 Days of Whisky and Wonders in Scotland
Working with Scholarly Sojourns
This was my first time taking a guided group tour with a company like Scholarly Sojourns. And to be honest, as someone who often travels solo with a very detailed itinerary catered to my own tastes, I was skeptical. But my fears were unfounded; the trip was fantastic. And our Scholarly Sojourns guide saved us more than once! (Here’s why traveling with a tour operator is a good idea.)
Since the trip was a partnership between Whiskied Wanderlust and Scholarly Sojourns, I personally designed the itinerary for the Whisky and Wonders in Scotland tour. So the itinerary is custom and unique to our trip. But Scholarly Sojourns has a plethora of tours throughout Scotland and Europe, many focusing on whisky, wine, or a cultural aspect like castles, literary focuses, and more. (Here’s some of their tours.)
Note: This post and those that follow about the trip are not sponsored by Scholarly Sojourns. Our partnership was strictly for the trip itself, and all the articles written about the trip are my own personal opinions inspired by the experience.
Three Days in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is the heart of Scotland. Many people will argue whether Glasgow or Edinburgh is where to start your Scotland journey, but I believe Edinburgh is where to go. The UNESCO World Heritage site has unique architecture, beautiful views, a medieval castle, great food and more. It’s also a gateway to the rest of Scotland, whether it’s for day trips from Edinburgh or as an introduction to longer stays around the country (like we did).
Related :: Here’s where to eat in Edinburgh, what to do in Edinburgh, and the best day trips from Edinburgh
After meeting the group — all 16 of us! — in the Wee Pub, the smallest pub in Scotland, we went on a walking tour of Edinburgh. It ended at Edinburgh Castle, where we went on a self-guided tour. It was my second time there, and every bit as awesome as the first.
That night we had a whisky-pairing dinner at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. The dinner was phenomenal, and the pairings were perfect. Normally reserved for SMWS members only, this is one of the many examples of why traveling with a tour group has perks.
Whisky Experiences in Edinburgh
To kick off a whisky-focused trip, we took a masterclass at The Scotch Whisky Experience. In addition to housing the world’s largest private collection of unopened scotch (3,384 bottles!), they hold whisky masterclasses. As someone who knows a lot about whisky, I expected to be bored. But not only did I learn a few things, the experience was entertaining, especially the aroma test. (Which I admit I struggled on!)
Next we went to the Johnnie Walker Princes Street for a deconstructed tasting of Johnnie Walker. Again, I didn’t have high expectations for it since I’m not a big fan of Johnnie Walker. But tasting the main components of the blended whisky helped me appreciate it much better. And I discovered I really liked Cardhu single malt (one of the components of Johnnie Walker)!
But the real highlight at the Johnnie Walker Experience is the 1820 Rooftop Bar. They offer single malts that almost nowhere else has — because they are used primarily in blended whiskies and not regularly offered as single malts. And their cocktails are incredibly creative and expertly executed. The bar staff was knowledgeable and friendly, and were an instant hit with our whole group.
Related :: the Ultimate Guide to Whisky in Edinburgh
Driving Through Scotland
An incredible thing happens when you get outside of Edinburgh or Glasgow in Scotland. You realize that every single view, from every single angle, is stunning. Throughout our Whisky and Wonders in Scotland trip, we drove through a lot of small villages and along a lot of lakes (or “lochs”). And every view was beautiful.
We drove along the Firth of Forth until we got to Deanston Distillery for a warehouse tour. It was the only distillery on our itinerary that I hadn’t tasted the whisky before the trip. And the Highland single malt was delicious! Which shouldn’t have been surprising considering I enjoy their sister distilleries Ledaig and Bunnahabhain.
We continued on to Stirling Castle, one of the largest and most important castles in Scottish history. I’d been there before and — like Edinburgh Castle — found it just as beautiful as the first time.
One Night in Oban
Then it was back on the road again, for a winding road with stunning scenery until we got to Glen Coe. It really is hard to explain how beautiful the mountain pass is in real life. The photos just can’t do it justice.
We stopped on the side of the road to enjoy some whisky while we took in the view, then continued our drive onto Oban (pronounced “OH-bin”). Built around Oban Distillery, the little seaside town is the seafood capital of Scotland. We had fish and chips at one of the best chippies in Scotland, before drinking with locals at a pub open since 1790.
Oban is adorable. It’s the perfect place to stop for a night to break up what otherwise would be a long drive between Edinburgh and the Islay ferry.
I wished I could have stayed longer in Oban, but we were onto Islay. For me, Islay was the main point of the entire trip, and I couldn’t wait to get to the whisky island. We had some issues with the ferry (more on that later) but eventually made it.
Related :: What to Know about Islay Before You Go
Three Days on Islay
Islay was a whirlwind. In just three days, we toured, tasted, or visited 7 of the 9 distilleries on the island. Islay (pronounced “EYE-lah”) is notoriously difficult to get to (the ferry often breaks down and flights are routinely canceled due to weather) and even harder to get around once you’re there. Luckily our bus made it over on the ferry, so we had transportation.
The island is also suffering from a post-Covid shortage of workers, so many restaurants are closed or operating with limited hours and availability. We stayed in the small town of Port Ellen, where only two restaurants currently serve food. Our Scholarly Sojourns guide navigated which restaurants had openings and for how many people, so we could split up between the two spots each night.
The first day on Islay we did a warehouse tasting at Lagavulin, toured Ardbeg, and finished with another warehouse tasting at Bruichladdich. The next day, we toured Laphroaig, followed by Kilchoman, then did a warehouse tasting at Bunnahabhain, and a tasting at Caol Ila. We also stopped at the peat bogs to see where locals cut peat to burn for fuel. It was a lot of whisky — and a lot of fun.
Related :: The Ultimate Guide to Distilleries on Islay and What to Know Before Going to Islay
One Night in Campbeltown
Before the high of Islay could wear off, we jumped back on the ferry to the mainland. This time, headed for Campbeltown. Again, the drive along the coast was beautiful, watching whitecap waves rush to the beach.
We went directly to Springbank Distillery, a rustic distillery with a lot of charm. There they make three brands of whisky: Springbank, Longrow, and Hazelburn; and next door their sister distillery Glengyle makes Kilkerran whisky. We ate the fisherman’s platter at Springbank, then toured the historic distillery.
Both distilleries are owned by Cadenhead’s, the oldest independent bottler in Scotland, open since 1842. Today Cadenhead’s is known for aging or finishing their own single casks and creating their own blends. We tasted six whiskies straight from the cask in their warehouse, then shopped in their famous store.
We arrived at our hotel in time for a shoreline walk and a whisky, before a our whisky-pairing dinner at the Royal Hotel.
One Final Night in the Lowlands & Loch Lomond
The group unanimously agreed that we were in love with Campbeltown and wanted to stay basking in its beauty, but we had more distilleries to visit. On our final day we headed out of Campbeltown to Inveraray.
Inveraray is yet another charming town, this one anchored by Inveraray Castle. Unlike Edinburgh and Stirling Castles, which are legitimate medieval castles built as both fortresses and homes, Inveraray Castle is a modern mansion modeled after a medieval castle. In fact, the Duke of Argyll still lives there!
Medieval or not, Inveraray Castle was still entertaining to tour. Then we walked into town for lunch and shopping at the cute stores along the tiny main street. After lunch we were on the move again, this time to Auchentoshan.
Our last distillery was Auchentoshan Distillery, a Lowland region distillery known for triple distilling all their whisky. (Triple distilling is rare in Scotland but used regularly in Irish whisky.) We toured the modern distillery, which was a striking contrast to the rustic Springbank. Then we drove to our final destination for the trip: Drymen, in Loch Lomond.
10 Days in Scotland
Spending 10 days in Scotland is plenty of time to cover a lot of ground. We stayed in five different places, and stopped in half a dozen more on the way. But in order to cover this much ground (which I highly recommend!), you have to either rent a car, hire a driver, or travel with a tour group like Scholarly Sojourns.
Over the next few posts, I’ll cover more details of the Whisky and Wonders in Scotland trip, like the benefits of traveling with a tour operator, what to know before going to Islay, a guide to whisky distilleries on Islay, and what to eat in Scotland. Stay tuned for more!
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Fantastic write up about an amazing trip. Thanks for sharing!